Sunday, November 7, 2010

A weekend at Longbeach, Vancouver Island, BC Canada


The rain beat down on the windshield like plywood boards. We can image the cold and dampness outside from inside the car. Wisps of cloud cling to the tops of the trees between the mountain ridges and then rise and disappear into the dark rainclouds obscuring the peaks. We are in a rainforest.


Summer and Murphy are not doing so well in the back seat. Murphy just lies there, obviously, feeling sorry for himself. Summer is panting hard. We need to get to Longbeach as soon as possible.


Cox Bay. I love the west coast. I love the thunder of the waves as they beat down on the sand beach and the vastness out over the horizon. Can you see China?


The surfers seem to be immune to the weather. There are dozens of them. They are insane the water temperature must be about 4°C. I wish I was there with them. Covered head to toe in neoprene which really doesn’t keep the cold out it just delays the inevitable. Eventually your body aches from the cold as your core temperature slowly drops. Your face and lips have long ago lot their feeling. Your fingers and toes are numb. I wish I was out there with them and then a cold beer afterwards to celebrate the experience.


Summer and Murphy love the beach. Summer is OCD and chases her ball. She would collapse from exhaustion before stopping. Murphy, my old man, is having hip issues but has put that out of his mind for the time being; there is too much excitement at the moment. Both are soaked and their fur is impregnated with sand and they are the happiest mutts in the world.


Sobo Tofino


Sobo is a much talked about restaurant in Tofino. Evolving from humble beginnings as a truck stop the restaurant now is a modern comfortable establishment. Enroute named it one of Canada’s best new restaurants in 2003. I’ve heard read great things about their fish tacos. I love fish tacos. I hated the Sobo version. Salmon the main ingredient had a strange flavour. Far from fresh it tasted as if the fish was boiled or braised in a light tomato sauce. The taco shell is crunchy not soft, another issue for me and there were huge pieces of pineapple and melon on top. The whole thing was just strange.


One more complaint; wilted herbs. Here’s the thing, you know when you cut herbs and add them to something like coleslaw and then you put the coleslaw in the fridge for a couple of days. When you bring it out the herbs have turned into pieces of unappetizing black slimy oxidised things. That was my coleslaw, which was a shame because the cornmeal crusted deep fried oyster it came with was outstanding. Fresh fresh fresh. OK, they got that right. They also got the Civiche absolutely right, it was also outstanding. Soft tender morsels of halibut, tomato, onions, lime juice. I love Civiche if it’s on the menu I order it and this one was a home run.


Sobo, a couple of misses a couple of homeruns. I can see why the hype, when they get it right they do great.

Also an award they need to add to their list: I personally give them the award for most outstanding men’s washroom sign.



Sunday morning. The sun breaks through the clouds. The air is fresh, sweet and salty. What a great contrast from the day before. What a truly magical part of the world.