Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Vij's Restaurant Vancouver, BC




Vij’s Restaurant.



Vancouver BC
Rating: A

I’ve heard a lot about Vij’s. Mostly glowing reviews, some calling Vij’s the best East Indian restaurant in North America. I’m always a bit sceptical of the “best” designation. How does one judge something like this? None the less glowing reviews always peaks my interest so I must visit.

Right of the top, let me say that I am not an expert on East Indian cuisine. I like it. I’ve been to many East Indian restaurants. I cook East Indian at home occasionally with varying success. East Indian food is something that is not innate to my senses.
Unlike Mediterranean or North American cuisine, were I can pretty much imagine what something should taste like given the spices herbs and other ingredients. I do not have this ability with Indian Cuisine.

This was our menu for the evening:
(There were four of us and we all decided to share. Highly recommended)
Sounds great, even if I have no idea what the taste will be like.
Mutton Kabob with Bengali Style Curry
Punjabi Heart Attack (Spicy cashews, raw sugar, panear and ghe) chased with quinoa salad in lemon dressing.
Garam Masala sautéed Portobello mushrooms in porchini cream curry
Coconut curried vegetables with Cholia rice pilaf
Grilled pork tenderloin (naturally raised) with pistachio, dates and glazed orange split pea, spinach and garlic mash.
Beef Short Ribs in Cinnamon and red wine curry with warm greens
Lamb marinated popsicles in fenugreek cream curry on turmeric spinach potatoes.

I may not know what everything should taste like. But I do know this.
I liked it. I like it a lot.

The standout for me was the Mutton Kabob. Soft, moist, loaded with good old lamby goodness. I would just go back have that as a snack with a cold beer. Oh my. In fact, talk about perfect bar food. I would skip the chicken wings for this. And that’s a hell of a statement from somebody that has never skipped chicken wings in his life.

The food at Vij’s is all about the sauce. And the sauces are absolutely outstanding. Deeply layered flavours, nothing overpowering, just layer upon layer of flavour. It seems strange, but the best way to describe it is to compare the food to a deeply layered full bodied red wine. In both cases the flavours hit your taste buds like a brick and then linger and develop over time.
To me, this is the biggest difference between Vij’s and other East Indian restaurants. Others overpower with heat and curry. Here the flavours are intense yet subtle. I know it sounds contradictory, but try it you’ll see.

So the question then, what is real East Indian cuisine? Are other East Indian restaurants tweaked to North American tastes? Or is Vij’s really authentic East Indian cuisine. I suspect that Vij’s is really an East Indian fusion restaurant. OK, more East Indian less fusion. But tell me, were in India do they make a “red wine curry? I don’t know. In the big scheme of things it doesn’t really matter. The taste was outstanding.

Aside from the food, the feel of the restaurant was laid back, unpretentious. I like that staff bring around trays of appetizers for you to try while you are waiting for a table or waiting for your meal to arrive. Very homey. I love that Vikram Vij was actually there greeting guests. Let’s be clear, he probably doesn’t have to be. When was the last time anyone saw Bobby Flay in a kitchen restaurant? Sorry to pick on you Bobby. But as a celebrity chef/owner you almost don’t expect the star to be there. The fact that he is and is present regularly from what I understand, scores big points with me.

Fantastic food. Great restaurant. I’ll be back. But why do they not take reservations?

Wesite: www.vijs.ca

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